An American in Portugal: 4 days on the Rota Vicentina “Fisherman’s Trail”
While the Camino de Santiago and its unmistakeable scallop shell are an exception, few other multi-day treks in Europe are quite so well known by Americans. Having lived in the U.K. for a few years, I’ve developed the passion for long walks and the pub stops along the way! When searching for a multi-day walk that didn’t involve serious mountaineering and daily tent assembly, the Rota Vicentina or “Fisherman’s Trail” in Portugal was the clear winner.
There are many amazing guides for planning your trip, and the most popular segment is the 4 day, 70+km walk between Porto Covo and Odeceixe. This post will be less of a “how to” and more of a ramble of random thoughts and pictures, but I’ll start with a few high-level suggestions and reflections:
- Book bus tickets using Rede Expressos
- Bring lightweight neck gaiter and (if you can) shoe gaiters! Sand is your biggest enemy on this trail.
- Cash is always handy in small towns, but many places take debit card
- Book your accommodation in advance so you can be sure of where you’re staying each night. Hostels are the cheapest and most social option, though they vary in vibe and quality. Shout out to Hostel Nature in Zambujeira do Mar with the kindest owner who has designed the space to feel like home with a cozy, heated common area and a laundry machine/dryer you can use to wash stinky hiking clothes!
- You can cook at hostels, but eating out isn’t terribly expensive. My meals ranged from €10 for a sandwich and coffee to €20–25 for a full dinner with Couvert (bread, olives, pate, etc.), main dish and wine
- The bus from Lisbon to Porto Covo takes 2–3 hours. If you take an early bus, you could start the hike the same day. I would choose to do this if I did the walk again.
- Most guides suggest daily walks around 4–5 hours. If you’d prefer a longer walk you could consider combining days.
- The trail is incredibly well signposted. Learn more in this handy guide.
- There are very few stops along the way for water or bathrooms.
- I joked to my partner that during my hike, the trail was me and middle aged German women! In all seriousness, the trail does seem especially popular for German and Italian hikers, and I only encountered 2 other Americans for a rare, brief “hey!” as they sped walk towards Odeceixe.
- One of my favorite trail minutiae were the wild bamboo patches and the sound they make swaying in the wind. Now I understand the purpose of sound baths!
In this next section I’ll break down my daily experience in each segment of the walk from Porto Covo to Odeceixe including actual kilometers walked and food & hike footage from the trail. Because I was there in late March, the weather changed a lot, changing from sunny skies tointense wind and rain that was difficult to hide from while on a coastal walk like the Rota.
Day 1: Porto Covo to Vila Nova de Milfontes
AllTrails: 19.5km | Actual: 19.25 km / 4.5 hours
The first day was a terrific lesson in the ways of the Rota Vicentina: dramatic cliffs, endless sand dunes, and incredibly well marked trails. This last bit was a surprise — I hardly used the AllTrails map for wayfinding at all thanks to the reliable, unmissable blue and green lines guiding every step. (In contrast, the blue and green “X” indicates a wrong direction). You’ll also see signage for other walks like the Historical Way (red and white).
Like many others have observed, walking in sand dunes is no joke. Some prefer walking barefoot, others with sand gaiters. I adopted a sliding walk where my foot didn’t have to move up and down as much and sink into the loose sand and in the process, accumulate said sand in my shoes. This method wasn’t that effective, and it was frustrating when the dune walk segments stretched on for several kilometers. Sadly, watching Dune 2 the week before did not help my technique much.
One of my favorite moments of the walk was the arrival in beautiful Vila Nova de Milfontes. After a day of cloudy skies, the sun came out as I arrived on the beautiful Praia da Franquia beach for a late lunch. Seafood stew and a glass of green wine were the perfect end to the first day’s hike.
Day 2: Vila Nova de Milfontes to Almograve
AllTrails: 15.0km | Actual: 10.24km / 2.5 hours (because I took the ferry!)
Some of the best eats on the trail were in Vila Nova de Milfontes, including Manjedoura Restaurant, with its incredible grilled chicken and Paparoca Sandwicheira for a quick sandwich and my first Mazagran, an iced lemony espresso drink. With all these incredible meals in my 20 hours in town, I had a slow start to Day 2. This was not a problem at all, because I decided to take the ferry across the river in place of the longer 15km trek that is the official route. The ferry is located close to the fortress and operated by an adorable cat colony and their caretakers! There is a poster of all of the cats with their names, and you see them lounging and sunning around the dock. This experience felt straight out of a Miyazaki movie and absolutely the highlight of the day.
The short boat ride also cut 5km off the day’s walk, which allowed me to spend more time on the stunning Praia das Furnas on the other side of the Mira River. The beach was an epic way to start, with endless sea and sky and an utter sense of peace and calm. The low tide exposes huge swaths of beach that kite surfers and dogs alike took advantage of. Along the beach there are these massive caves, carved by years of wind and water. Eventually, I had to climb up one of these to make my way back to the trail after dawdling on Praia das Furnas for a bit too long. The rest of the day was an easy, sunny hike on (mostly) firm land.
Restaurant options in Almograve paled in comparison to Vila Nova de Milfontes, and I ended up having a rather intense plate of steak and fries, which I don’t think is worth sharing here.
Day 3: Almograve to Zambujeira do Mar
AllTrails: 21.6km | Actual: 20.72km / 4.5 hours
This day marked the longest hike of the trip and while there wasn’t rain, the wind was so intense that it often blew sea water and foam up onto the trail! While the views were stunning, they are surely more enjoyable when turning to look at the sea doesn’t also come with the risk of losing your hat or backpack rain cover. For me, the segments inland in the forest were a welcome respite from the wind. This day also did have more segments on roads shared with cars compared to other days. Day 3 did feature a bit more dune walking, but it was all worth it to arrive in the stunning Zambujeira do Mar, my favorite town of the trip!
Day 4: Zambujeira do Mar to Odeceixe
AllTrails: 18.0km | Actual: 17.42km / 4.25 hours
The final sgement from Zambujeira do Mar to Odeceixe was the gem of the whole trek, capturing the soul of the Rota in a day! If you were to choose just a single hike, this would be the one. I was sad to leave Zambujeira do Mar with its lovely streets and kind people, but Day 4’s hike was incredible. Though there was still a bit of dune walking, there was also finally some elevation, and the climbs were rewarded by incredible views. The final stretch into Odeceixe involves walking on a paved road by the Seixe River into the charming town.
Odeceixe has a much wider range of amenities, from fine dining and yoga classes, to a Chinese restaurant and Ao Largo, a vegetarian cafe run by the hostel I was staying at. I learned the speciality of this region is sweet potatoes, which is why they feature so heavily on the menu! After a long four days of walking, I made a final steep trek up to Restaurante Assador Altinho for an incredible lunch. It seems many people come for dinner, but at lunch time it was just me and another couple. The couvert spread was abundant and delightful, with tasty tuna pate, a variety of fresh breads, and fresh butter. I also enjoyed the Portugeuse olive oil they provided and the incredible Sal Marim, made from Fleur de Sel sea salt crystals.
In 4 days, I fell in love with Portugal, with its rugged coastlines, quiet fishing towns each with its unique personality, and the incredible local food and wine that made each day even more special. Navigating the dunes was a challenge, especially when you’re one of the first things the mighty Atlantic wind encounters on mainland Europe, but a month later, I find myself ready to go back as soon as I can.
Happy trails to all who walk the Rota Vicentina! May the sand under your feet be firm and the winds light on your back.
